West Lake with the Family

 After going out to breakfast with the boys, we all decided to spend time visiting beautiful West Lake together. Here is Nam Vu all excited about getting out and taking a little time away.

 While Nam Vu was ready and raring to go, happy to pose before getting in the car, Nam decided to strike a different posture. He was kidding, of course, because he was looking forward to having a good meal out.

 We circled the entirety of the lake, about 17 kilometers. (I don't know how far that is in Freedom Miles, sorry.) Here is Nam about to fall into the water. The weather was typical Hanoi hot and muggy, but there are many trees along the walk of the perimeter of the lake so it was bearable.

 Binh and son ;just hanging with Nam Vu pondering life in the background.

 It was late in the morning, so the lotus blossoms were closed up. I can never fathom the size of the leaves that do not float on the water, but stick up on stems at least a foot above. Vinh is showing me how many more seconds he wants to stand in the hot sun.

Nam and I taking the obligatory "we were here" shot.

 After checking out a new craft beer restaurant for our lunch, we decided to go back to our old favorite, an Italian place right on the water. It is owned by a real Italian and the food is tremendous. We had antipasti, ravioli, pizza, and here you can see the size of the calzone Binh ordered. It is literally the size of a pizza folded over. I'm pointing out that she has to eat the whole thing (even after eating a piece of the pizza Nam Vu ordered.)

 For dessert, the five of us split a huge piece of tiramisu. It was soft and gooey and delicious, the perfect end to a great meal.

Here is the lovely couple. Nice pic if I do say so myself.

A photo of Nam Vu looking strikingly like his older brother.

The five of us before leaving. The light is not good, but what're you gonna do? Just take the picture. On the way home we stopped and got some real baked ham for sandwiches...a treat for me. All in all, a really good day.

Out on the Town in Hanoi (Part II)

 After lunch we walked to the remnants of the Hoa Lo prison. It was a somber time for both of us. Here is Nam standing at the entrance where the French brought Vietnamese who dared to rebel against their running of the country. It is a place where you can feel the ghosts of those kept there.

 The big ironwood doors, originally out front, are now placed inside. They are formidable. Behind are the rows of raised platforms where prisoners were kept, one or both legs shackled to the platform. They could only lay down or sit up. The solitary confinement cells were covered in black pitch to take away any ambient light that might come into them.

 During the war with the United States, captured prisoners were also housed here. This is the famous "Hanoi Hilton" where Senator John McCain was taken after he crashed into the lake. Don't believe a word on that sign...the men were kept in squalid conditions, tortured, starved, and brutalized.

There is a picture of Senator McCain being taken from the water. The men were led through the streets in shackles, cursed and spit upon by the people along the way. I can only imagine how I might feel having foreigners bomb my homeland and kill my relatives and friends. All the while I thought about our driver's father. It was a sobering end to a full day for Nam and I.

Out on the Town in Hanoi (Part I)

 Nam and I decided to hang out in Hanoi for the day so we took Grab (Vietnam's version of Uber) to the fashionable West Lake neighborhood. The traffic at 9:30 was crazy as usual, but our driver was affable and wanted to talk. We learned that he lost his father in the bombings of Hanoi by the Americans when he was 10 and that they would huddle next to the French embassy for some bit of safety. What happens to civilians in war is unfathomable.

First stop was a small bar and sushi place. We had a great time just chatting over drinks. Being the only ones there because it was early allowed us to talk. We discussed everything from family to girls to politics.

 As usual, before we left I had to go to the men's room, and boy, was I surprised. I have never been to a loo as consciously decorated as this one. It's the first time I ever called a bathroom "warm and cozy."

Tadioto is the name of the place. We didn't stay for lunch to try the ramen or the sushi, but I'm guessing it was pretty good. We did, however have an excellent repast.

 After looking at possibly eating at the now famous Bún Chả Hương Liên (where Obama had lunch with Anthony Bourdain) but were discouraged by the massive crowds, I found a buffet tucked into the basement of an office building. For 35,000 dong each ($1.53) it was all you could eat. Of course, I was magnanimous and treated.

 The soda and water, however, were more, but I figured I'd splurge the extra dollar. The food was delicious and the place was filled with office workers. It's a place well-known by locals, and Nam said many were staring because there was a foreigner obviously out of place. How could they tell?

 Then afterwards we walked off the food for a while and stopped into the most amazing chocolate shop for an espresso. Maison Marau has the be the cleanest, most amazing place to watch chocolate being made. Here is a professional chocolatier  cutting out squares to be sculpted. It took her about six minutes just to cut six, because she measured carefully and cut perfectly.

We had our espresso while watching the chocolate being cut. I had a double and Nam a single. Oh, and the air conditioning really added to the ambiance.

Two Crazy Things from This Morning

 Yeah, that's me. This morning we went to that same place for pho and just had to finish all of the broth. I asked permission to slurp and it was granted.

After breakfast, Nam Vu decided he'd strain the small pieces of candy. Yup, that's exactly what he did. I never cease to be amazed.

Indian Food and a Good Massage

Yesterday, Nam (right) took me and his younger brother Nam Vu to an Indian place for lunch. It wasn't a long walk, and the streets were filled with traffic as usual.

On the way we passed these two All-American joints. I'm not sure that either were authentic, but the Indian sure was. Sorry, I don't have pictures of us eating because we were having a good time just hanging together.

Today I got my second scalp massage/shampoo and facial with Binh. Here she is looking over at me, the one guy getting this done. The ladies were nice, not laughing too much at me having a good time getting spoiled. It was one of the best hours in my life...definitely doing it every time I'm here.

Got There

 Here is Nam Vu working his keyboard. Now entering 8th grade, he is quite the conversationalist. It's hard to believe that I have known him since he was a baby.

 Looking down  Trung Hoa street before the walk. This area consists only of single family houses, not very wide, but deep and high. The reason they are not wide is that the French, who used to occupy Vietnam, charged taxes on the length of street the property occupied.From outside of the house looking in, you can see the classroom. Most of the first floor is the classroom. The chairs are new and make life easier to form groups and for cleaning up after class.

 Here is Binh closing the front gate before we begin our walk early walk. We took the dog and enjoyed the cool, cloudy morning. The only people out seemed to be runners those going to jobs. Not much traffic...yet, but you know Hanoi traffic.







The family: Vinh (standing), Nam Vu, Nam, and Binh. We had real pho, and it was terrific.

Across from us sat two men, and Vinh asked them to take a picture of the five of us. Got to say we are darn good looking.

Getting There

 So the plane left from San Francisco Airport early on Sunday morning. Danny took me to the airport and kindly waited until I get lost in the mob going through security. I got to fly on one of the newest planes that had those LED lights which could turn the cabin  different colors. Here is a picture I took of the lights while I waited for the restroom. Dang, all of them were on so they only looked white.

 I flew Korean Air, and here I am up in the transfer lounge waiting to go to Hanoi. They have free showers and even a small library in which to relax. I was tempted to get something to eat, but I already had breakfast on the first plane and I knew there would be another on the second. I felt like a Hobbit: Sure, we had first breakfast, but what about second breakfast?

 Terminal in Seoul had this massive ribbon LED panel hanging from the ceiling. It was mesmerizing, with beautiful shapes and vivid colors going across. Amazing.

This is the view from the end of the terminal looking back. The expanse is breathtaking. I got there at 4 in the morning, so I had the place almost to myself.  But soon it was time to board for Vietnam.